From Rubber Stamped Images
By Laurie Bryson Hann ("Hannstampr")
Note: These pins look professionally created when they are completed. My first one was a large teddy bear, so I will give instructions as if you are using this rubber stamp. When I say "ears", "feet" or "nose", you can substitute whatever parts you have decided should be three-dimensional (3D).
Find a rubber stamp that you would like to make into a pin -- it should have some parts that could be 3D. For instance, if you use a stamp of a bear that has a large nose, ears, and is sitting with feet straight out, the 3D parts would be the ears, nose and feet.
Take a sheet of Kromcoat card stock and stamp out four images. One should be as perfect as you can make it (that is, no smudges, no faded portions, etc. ) as this will be the top part of the pin in some places. After you cut out the first four bears (or whatever image you have chosen), put aside the "Perfect" image. Use Aleen's Thick Designer Tacky glue to glue the other three together. (Must be this glue, as it thickens as it dries; this makes the piece thicker and helps give a wonderful 3D effect.)
Set them aside and color in the "perfect" one, but only in the places that will not be 3D (which means they will be the parts showing on top when the pin is finished). In this example, color every place on the bear except the ears, nose and feet.
Now glue the colored "perfect" one to the top of the other three you already glued together. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT EMBOSS ANY PORTION OF THIS, as the embossing powder will melt in the final "coatings".
Stamp three more images on more card stock. At least one of these should also be as good as possible -- or "perfect" -- as it will be used for the top portion of the 3D parts. Take the parts you have decided to make 3D and cut out the ears, noses and feet. Now you have (not counting the whole bear that is partially colored) three sets of ears, three sets of feet, and three noses. Pick the very best one of each and put them aside.
Take the other parts and glue them together (but NOT to the whole bear yet); that is, glue two feet together, two ears together, and two noses together. Color in the "best" pieces you set aside. Glue the "best" pieces -- now colored -- to the tops of their mates. Now you have:
1 whole bear, partially colored (that is, four layers / levels) 1 set of ears, feet, and one nose (these are three layers / levels) Now carefully holding the pieces with the back portion facing you, use a black Marvy marker to color the EDGES of ALL your glued piece -- the edges of the whole bear, the edges of the ears, and the edges of the nose and feet. Set aside and let all the pieces dry15 minutes, at least.
The reason I say "with the back portion facing you" is if the marker slips -- and it will --it will slip across the side that is facing you. If it slips across the back, you have no problems; if it is the front, you will have a black mark over the colored portion of your pin. The reason you are coloring the edges BEFORE you glue them all together is because it would be very difficult to color the nose edges, etc. AFTER they are glued together.
Glue the separated ears on top of the ears of the whole bear; ditto with the nose and the feet. Now your bear is complete, and you are about half- finished with the pin. Take your black Marvy marker, and holding the back portion facing you, color the entire back of the bear. Set it down and let it dry at least 15 minutes.
After the back is completely dry, you can bend various portions forward. On the bear, I bent the ears forward a little by putting a pencil eraser in the middle and gently folding the ears up around the pencil. The folded parts will usually stay as you bend them.
Now the real fun starts. Use plenty of the cheapest, clear (non-yellowing) fingernail polish or protector (1 use Wet 'n' Wild, which costs 99 cents a bottle) to coat the back, and let it dry. Coat the front and let it dry, being sure at some point to coat the edges. When completely dry, do it all again and again; four to six coats is fine, the more the better. Be sure it is dry between each coat! The polish dries quickly, usually 1O to 15minutes between coats. After this treatment, the pin is completely waterproof.
Now is the time to decide if you want it to be a pin, pendent or magnet. Use E6000 to glue the pin (or magnet, or pendant finding) onto the back of your image. (You can substitute your favorite pin backing or glue. ) Let it dry 30 minutes or so.